What is Rappelling?

Rappelling (or "rapel" in Spanish) originates from the French word “rappel,” which has various meanings, but the ones that interest us here are “mobilization” and “moving forward.” Today, across different languages, it refers to the extreme sport involving a controlled descent down vertical surfaces that are otherwise difficult to access.

In general, this technique is used by speleologists, mountaineers, rescuers, construction workers, and even military personnel for a variety of operations. The underlying physical principle is consistent: achieving the necessary friction and tension to control and maneuver the rope. However, the system, technique, and equipment used vary. Interestingly, this activity has been practiced for centuries.

Historical Origins

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Macedonian Warriors Climbing

There is evidence that during the reign of Alexander the Great in 300 B.C., ropes were already being used to climb surfaces, most likely for military purposes rather than exploration. However, the closest verified historical records of activities resembling modern rappelling date back to the 1400s and 1600s.

The first descent resembling today’s rappelling, and which is credited with introducing the technical term “rappel,” was performed by Frenchman Jean Charlet-Straton in 1876. Straton was the first to descend using a metallic descender. Over time, this innovation inspired various technological advances in the equipment used for rappelling.

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It wasn’t until the 1960s that the technology, equipment, and techniques became consolidated. During the same decade, the discipline gained popularity in professions like construction, rescue missions, tourism, and eventually as an extreme sport.

Interestingly, rappelling was initially developed as a secondary technique in climbing and mountaineering. Its design was meant to be an auxiliary method to avoid dangers and obstacles encountered while ascending or descending mountains. It was a specific observation that transformed the act of descending into an independent discipline.

Descending in the Modern Era

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In 1932, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) was established. This organization focused on strengthening, organizing, and improving techniques and creating more advanced equipment. Much of this was based on the experiences observed in the Alpine regions of Switzerland.

Alpine Villagers Gathering Food

During the summer, Alpine villagers would gather fruits and vegetables atop massive mountains, earning them the nickname “alpinists.” To descend, they used rope systems and relied on adrenaline. The French called this boldness “rappel,” referring to moving forward, descending, and mobilizing.

Thanks to the organization and popularity that followed in various fields, multiple disciplines began using innovative techniques and sophisticated systems to explore and reach places previously unimaginable.

Modern Applications

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1. Speleology: The exploration and study of cave formations. Rappelling techniques have led to the discovery of prehistoric caves, underground labyrinths, rivers, and diverse biological specimens and ecosystems.
2. Mountaineering: Ascending and descending systems are still used to avoid dangerous obstacles while climbing mountains.
3. Rescue Missions: Whether in nature or urban settings, rappelling techniques are employed to rescue accident victims in hard-to-reach places.
4. Military Operations: Special forces use descent systems to conduct assault operations with speed and surprise.
5. Construction: Modern construction companies use various rope systems to transport people and materials across different heights.
6. Adventure Tourism: Many people explore remote natural locations alongside experts to discover incredible, hidden places.
7. Sport: Rappelling as an extreme sport is relatively new but highly popular. Experts now practice the art of ascending and descending dangerous places purely for enjoyment.

Systems and Descent Techniques

There are several ways to descend vertical surfaces or while suspended in the air. Here are some of the most notable systems:

Systems with Descenders

Tubular Devices: Among the safest systems today, it provides greater friction and requires less physical effort to control the descent.

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Marimba (or Rack): A device made of special alloys to resist friction wear. It consists of parallel bars through which the rope is "woven" to create tension and control descent by loosening the rope.

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Figure-Eight Descender: A metal device shaped like an eight, once extremely popular. One loop of the eight attaches to the harness while the rope passes through the other, creating tension and friction.

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Pulley Systems: These distribute weight evenly and allow for highly controlled descents. Specialized pulleys are designed for activities like rescue and speleology.

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Carabiner Friction Systems

Carabiner Brake: A carabiner with an integrated lock is used, wrapping the rope around it and securing it to the harness with another carabiner.

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Gramminger System: Requires seven D-shaped carabiners—one with a lock, four without, and two oppositely facing gate carabiners.

Body Techniques (High Risk, Not Recommended)

Arm Technique: Used on gently sloping walls, the rope passes under the arm, behind the neck, and over the shoulder. Friction is created with the body, and the descent is controlled with the hand.

Dülfer Technique: The rope is placed over the shoulder, under the extended arm, and between separated legs. Friction and descent control come from the body and hand.

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Comici Technique: Similar to Dülfer, but the rope passes through a carabiner on the harness instead of directly under the legs.

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Essential Elements and Equipment

In extreme sports and adventure activities, the term "system" refers to a set of interconnected instruments. In rappelling, all elements work together to facilitate ascents and descents.

Basic Systems and Equipment:

1. Anchor System: The connection between the anchor and the rope.
   • Natural anchors: trees, rocks, etc.
   • Artificial anchors: chains, pitons, etc.
2. Rope System: The connection of ropes from the anchor point to the rope's end.
   • Use only ropes approved by international standards like UIAA or CE.
3. Personal System: The gear worn by the individual.
   • Helmet
   • Harness
   • Carabiners
   • Ascenders (Croll, handles)
   • Descenders (Stop, marimba, etc.)
   • Anchor cords with carabiners.

‍Knots

There is a wide range of knots with various functions depending on the activity being performed. We recommend consulting specialized and updated manuals for deeper knowledge and technical practices.

Here are some of the basic knots used in rappelling:

Figure-Eight Knot: Used to tighten the end of a rope to prevent it from coming undone.

Double Figure-Eight Knot: The same as the figure-eight knot but made with two ropes at the same time.

Figure-Eight on a Bight: A versatile variant of the figure-eight knot. It allows two loops to pass through a single connector to distribute the load.

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Butterfly Knot (or Papillon): Used to create a static loop in the middle of the rope.

Clove Hitch: A sailor’s knot used to secure a rope to a ring or post.

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Munter Hitch (Dynamic Knot): Functions as a rudimentary descender and brake.

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Fisherman’s Knot: Used to join two ropes together.

Prusik Knot: A friction knot used to tie a loop or cord to a rope.

Machard Knot: A self-locking, unidirectional knot (locks securely in one direction) tied to a rope.

Simple Loop Knot: Used to create simple loops or rings.

Safety Measures

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Continuous practice and constant learning are essential for safe rappelling. This is because precise mastery of technical concepts and actions is necessary to minimize risks. However, the risk never disappears entirely. Overconfidence often leads to accidents.

Modern equipment is highly secure, but without prior knowledge of physics and new techniques, things can go wrong. A rappelling system operates like a "failure-proof chain," where each point is critical. Misplacing an anchor point or failing to understand its role can lead to fatal consequences.

Key Factors to Consider:

• The guide's experience and professionalism.
• Proper rescue equipment suited for the activity.
• Maintenance and condition of all equipment.
• Weather conditions, which can significantly affect safety.
• Anchor stability and terrain conditions.

Why Practice Extreme Activities?

At Nomad Adventures Mexico, we believe adrenaline-filled activities challenge us to step outside our comfort zones. They serve as a call to nature, urging us to face fears and overcome obstacles.

Experiencing something new breaks routine and reshapes our perception of the world. It fosters concentration, calm, and a drive to pursue the next challenge, filling our veins with purpose and passion.

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